Vintage veteran post vintage invitation class vehicle licence concession (Form E81)
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Zero Tolerance of Asbestos
Australia is one of the few countries with an absolute ban on asbestos – ‘Zero Tolerance’ – and the Australian Border Force (ABF) is tightening controls on offending vehicle imports. Many countries still allow small quantities of asbestos (i.e. 1%) to be used but Australia is one of the very few with a zero requirement and a total ban on import and export except under very limited circumstances.
Zero tolerance to asbestos, an Australia-wide ban on the manufacture and use of all types of asbestos and asbestos containing material (ACM), took effect on 31 December 2003. In order to support the domestic ban, asbestos or ACM imports to, and exports from Australia are prohibited, unless permitted by the relevant Minister. Australia signed a Zero Tolerance Asbestos agreement in 2003 and is now enforcing it.
As of Monday 6th March 2017 and without prior notification, The Australian Border Force (ABF) implemented a new community protection question when lodging import declarations for all motor vehicle tariff codes – i.e. “Do the goods contain asbestos?” This may relate to brake linings, clutch linings, brake disc pads, gaskets, seals or any other parts of the vehicle. Most vehicle manufacturers prohibited use of asbestos components in vehicles from 1999.
There is a double standard with new vehicles containing asbestos having been imported into Australia and Russell Manning has provided me with examples breaching the import ban. Recalls were issued but in several cases no action was taken apart from taking back unused stocks of the offending parts.
Anybody considering taking their vehicle out of the country must also be are of this restriction as they will be required to provide the vehicle is asbestos free to bring their vehicle back into Australia. This can be a very costly exercise.
There has been an instance where “destructive means” has been used to investigate for asbestos in a motor vehicle. The vehicle is a very original rare Shelby having a bill of $14,000 from ABF – and that is not including the repair costs and destruction of original vehicle components. Report from the owner is attached. (Annexure 2). This vehicle was en-route when Australia commenced enforcing the aero tolerance to asbestos so the owner did not have the opportunity to remove any asbestos prior to transit.
This article does appear to answer the question whether the vehicle or only the asbestos containing components are seized. It appears there is a provision in the act to permit the vehicle to be taken to a workshop for further work. We are investing the only real solution which will involve refining the inspection and remediation process so it is not too onerous.
I have been speaking Department of Environment in Canberra re the possibility of 1% acceptance for Australia. They are to advise details of the best person to speak with in ABF, Canberra. Even with a 1% tolerance, testing would still be required to know if it could be imported or not.
SOLVING COOLING WOES
Anyone with cooling problems may be interested in the following questions.
1) How much better / worse does a two row aluminum radiator with 1 inch tubes work in place of the same size radiator with four rows of 3/8 inch brass tubes and everything else in the cooling system remaining constant?
2) What about high performance water pumps versus stock for a real world temperature reduction?
3) What works better in the real world: a 17 inch seven blade flex fan at an engine idle speed of 675 RPM or a 2,360 cfm or thereabouts 17 inch electric fan?
4) Is straight water or 50/50 coolant better?
Taking the basic question first —– brass and copper radiators theoretically should offer conductivity advantages over aluminum except for two flies in the ointment:
a) the lead used to solder together the brass and copper is a poor heat conductor; and
b) brass radiators are limited to a maximum tube diameter of 5/8 to 3/4 inch.
Brass and copper are very soft, so larger tubes made from these materials can’t handle the pressure. Modern high tensile aluminum radiators can be built up to 1 1/2 inch tubes. The larger tubes allow radiator manufacturers to increase the tubes / inch density. That reduces the thickness of the radiator while improving airflow through the radiator. This is because the most important criterion for any radiator is it’s total surface area. You should increase core thickness only after surface area is maximized.
Beyond three rows the efficiency of the added rows at the back greatly diminishes. Generally a two row large-tube aluminum radiator is preferred for a low speed street cooling as this configuration minimizes pressure drop through the core and the fan power thereby required to pull air through the core.
In fact, an aluminum radiator with two rows of 1 1/2 inch coolant tubes is roughly equivalent to a copper / brass radiator with five rows of 1/2 inch tubes. Besides that, multi row brass / copper radiator is not only heavier, it’s added thickness also presents a more restrictive path for the air to travel, especially at low vehicle and engine speeds. Crossflow radiators are more efficient than downflow radiators. If your car has an old school downflow radiator, it may pay to upgrade to a later design. Assuming the fill cap is on the radiator, on the crossflow design the cap should always be on the outlet side. Upright (downflow) radiators have the cap on the inlet side; this subjects the filler cap to the pressure drop of the radiator’s core in addition to the system pressure, effectively lowering the pressure of a 22 psi rated cap to as low as 10 psi. Higher coolant system pressures raise the coolant’s vapor point and thus it’s ability to absorb heat. Always use the highest rated pressure cap available. The radiator filler cap must be located at the highest point in the cooling system. If the engine’s coolant inlet is the highest point, air pockets will form. To prevent air pocket formation under such a circumstance, relocate the filler cap to a surge tank mounted higher than the engine and the radiator.
Radiators become less efficient as the coolant temperature approaches ambient. A low flow rate keeps coolant in the radiator longer; the longer the coolant stays in the radiator, the lower the radiator’s efficiency. As radiator engineers put it — “non-laminar or turbulent coolant flow must be maintained within the radiator core”. One way to accomplish this is to insert baffles in the tanks to force the water to go through the radiator twice. The water spends the same amount of time in the radiator but must travel twice the distance, thereby doubling the speed of the water. This is known as dual-pass radiator design. Radiator fin density also dovetails with fan and blade angle configuration. Some experts say high-fin density radiators work best with engine driven fans with steep blade angles. When comparing electric and mechanical fan rpm at idle, remember that with a mechanical fan the drive pulley ratio comes into play.
Only if the crank and water pump pulleys are the same size is the fan rpm the same as engine rpm. No doubt in nearly every case, the electric fan will spin faster at idle than an engine driven fan, so if you have a low-speed cooling problem I’d lean toward an efficient electric fan design. Placing the fan behind the radiator is more efficient than a pusher fan placed in front of the radiator. Sometimes multiple small diameter electric fans work better than one large electric fan. The goal is to cover as much of the core face as possible. Failing that, custom fabricate a shroud to duct all air through the fan. If you are towing and / or have a high speed cooling problem, mechanical fans are still preferred.
Flex fans vary widely in quality, but even the best flex fan is nowhere near as efficient as a factory style, thermostatically controlled clutch fan. That’s the best you can get. Remember that a fan is designed to create negative pressure behind the radiator to pull air through. The further away it is from the radiator, the less efficient it is. If you’re not running a shroud it is recommended the fan blades be within one inch of the radiator and no more than two inches away. Better of course is to use a shroud that covers the entire radiator area. Position mechanical fan blades so that about half the blade depth projects into the shroud.
Fan to shroud blade tip clearance should be 3/4 inch max, less if you can get away with it without causing interference (remember to allow for engine / chassis movement). Although a performance water pump may show some improvement, we have not seen significant benefits from full race water pumps for low rpm street use. Optimized as they are for sustained high rpm engines, they may actually be less efficient at low rpm. One thing you can do if you have a low speed cooling problem is to change the drive pulley ratio to overdrive the water pump 20 to 30 percent. Certainly don’t underdrive the pump in your application and check that the fan belt(s) have good pulley contact with no slippage.
Water is the most efficient coolant medium. Only run coolant if your engine will be exposed to freezing conditions. If running pure water, add a corrosion inhibitor.
Finally, there is airflow management through the grill and engine compartment. There should be 3/8 to 1/2 inch maximum spacing between the A/C condenser and radiator. If there is too much space, the air will go around the condenser reducing it’s efficiency. But you can get around this by fabricating an air dam and under chassis plate to scoop air from under the car directly into the radiator. Take a look at late model cars, even stock sedans these days are bottom feeders and have some sort of air dam. Getting air out of a tightly cowled engine compartment is also important. Consider hood louvres or fender extractors.
Summing up: a modern high – fin density, dual pass aluminum radiator (two rows or two inch core thickness max) fed by ducted under vehicle air and backed by either high efficiency electric fans with a blade angle optimized for the radiator core design or a thermostatically controlled clutch driven mechanical fan properly shrouded, should solve your problems assuming the engine is sound and properly tuned.
Reproduced by Ken Churchman (WA Buick’s) with permission from HOTROD magazine U.S.A.
MAGAZINE REPORT 2018
I would like to thank Buick members who have contributed articles for publishing in the magazine in the past year, being Stuart Syme, Ros Hunt and Vic Bower.
The series called “Where Did You Get Your Buick?” is still running as we have many members who have not yet answered that question. I think most members have a natural curiosity about where various cars have come from.
As someone who gets the online version ofthe magazine,I am always impressed with the lovely colour photos accompanying articles. The cars are really shown off to their best. Unfortunately this does not translate to the hard copy of the magazine where the photos don’t do justice to the cars. Perhaps the Magazine Committee can move forward to even a centre page spread in colour, although this again all comes down to cost. Certa;inly something to look forward to in the future.
Once again all members are urged to support your magazine and we need to boost the WA content!
Magazine Co-Ordinator WA
BOCWA PRESIDENTS REPORT JULY 2018
Our Club continues to remain successful in times that are proving to be very difficult to similar clubs throughout Australia.
Club finances are in a very healthy state and therefore the Committee has decided that no increase in fees are necessary for the forthcoming year.
The Committee have again been very supportive and have worked extremely hard to ensure our Club remains viable and actively involved in events. I would like to express my appreciation for their efforts and dedication.
Membership has increased slightly during year and we have welcomed new members:-
Damian Flynn 1924 Tourer
Michael Skehan 1952 Special Delux
Adrian Vandenberg Various Buicks – 1925 Tourer, 1981 Park Sedan, 1992 Roadmaster.
Terry Hills ) 1926 Tourer
Kelly & Derek Gibson)
Graham Hickinbotham 1962 Skylark Convertible
The procedure for “impromptu runs” has proved to be a great success and the members who have embraced this system appear to be using it in the manner for which it is intended.
Code 404 continues to be of some concern with uncertainty in some areas. The situation of Club Licensing Inspectors has still not ben resolved. GST on imported items under $1,000 still is a mystery and changing rules to vehicle imports are a concern.
Hopefully these problems will disappear in the near future with outcomes positive to the historic vehicle movement.
Finally thanks to our members – you are a fabulous group of people and it is a pleasure to be associated with you all.
PRESIDENTS MESSAGE 2017
The last 12 months have been steady and somewhat uneventful but the Club
has continued to develop and remain in a financially good state – so much so that no increase in membership fees will be necessary for the coming year.
Membership numbers have increased slightly which is most rewarding and ensures that our Club remains healthy and in good shape for the future.
Throughout the year, we have welcomed new members
Brad & Bridgette Taylor
Trevor & Rachael Salter
Brad & Leisa Collins – 1969 Riviera
Bob & Regina West – 1955 Century Sedan
Sue Bell (daughter of Jim Bell)
The Committee has fulfilled their obligations in a conscientious and dedicated manner and have shown the necessary enthusiasm to carry out their duties to the betterment of the Club – I sincerely thank them for their efforts.
Changes to Code 404 have caused some confusion, but after a settling in period, have not produced any major problems.
One area of benefit is the newly introduced “impromptu runs” which will enable members to use their vehicles on a more regular basis. To facilitate these runs Beryl Donis has come up with an excellent program to log these runs via our website. Hopefully members will use this facility in the spirit it is intended and not cause problems with our ability to issue concessional licenses.
Finally to all members – a big thank you for helping to make our Club successful and one which can be enjoyed by all.
BUICK OWNERS CLUB OF WA (INC)
1985 Buick Electra Park Avenue. Imported new by Midland Brick and converted to RHD,
it has been a Perth car all its life. V6 front wheel drive. First of the “compact” full size Electra’s.
Annual West Australian Buick Club Autumn run. Just over 800kms ( 500 miles ) over the 3 day run. Visited a farmer who restores veteran motorcycles and has turned his hand to casting small parts in a home foundry. Also visited the farm of an 88 year old local in Wubin who has been collecting ” treasure ” his entire life.
Ah I seem to have your attention!
You must be one of the many millions of people who were told about the set of doors welded shut to protect a veritable treasure chest of cars for over forty years. This story surfaced in 2007.
I received an email recently to say there had been a second massive find similar to the firs! WOW! How could that happen TWICE!?
It is something of a dilemma that I want to share a truth with you, but I am using the internet to do it.
Nothing on the internet is true until proven otherwise. S0 will try to shed some light on digging around
Step One. Do a Google search for the “Thing” in question. In this case “barn doors welded shut full of cars” This returned almost three thousand results. Some of the results seem as if they are quiet credible and would lead me to believe that the story is true.
However on reading the summary of the pages found, I am getting a number of different angles on the story. It is now in different countries and was inherited by some and bought by others? HUMM?
I can also see some sites with names like www.truthorfiction.com listing the story.
Step Two. Do another Google for the same term with True or False on the end. “barn doors welded shut full of cars true or false” One hundred and seventy nine thousand results”
Step Three. Look around and choose the one that pleases you most!
When I fist saw this story I spent a bit of time with the fantasy of the Magic Find, but then I looked around and in the end I choose the true story.
The cars are real. The story about them being a surprise find in a barn, is not.
Tom Cotter from Sport Car Market found the truth about the cars. He reported that the owner was a car dealer in the 1970’s and 1980’s and decided to keep some of the more interesting cars that came his way. The mans identity and the exact location of the cars are a secret but Cotter found the photographer, Manuel Menezes Morais, who was hired by the collector to document the cars in the barn. Morais said that the owner kept storing the cars in the barn until it got full then he simply soldered the doors shut and the vehicles have been sitting there collecting dust for years. In my next post I will attempt to find out what has happened to the cars.
Googling strange stories, peoples names, email addresses, or claims coupled with the words “Scam” “True or False” can return some amazing and sometimes scary results.
Another “Barn Find” story I have seen on youtube is where someone takes a very good car and “Barnafies” it. Then films reversing the process, including tipping some fuel into the tank from a drum, adding a new battery and VOLIA it starts after thirty years. All for the glory of being a Youtube star and hopefully a Youtube millionaire.
Another Barn Pose I have seen was a car club day out where all the cars were parked up and a very lusty photo resulted. I do not have these photo at the moment but I will be looking for more examples to share.
‘Charlie Bit My Finger’ is an example of this fame and fortune it was reported that Charlies family made over £100,000 in advertising revenue from their video.
More images of the Portugese cars. http://www.intuh.net/barnfinds/index.htm
https://au.pinterest.com/explore/barn-finds/ Wishing photos.
Below is a partial inventory.portugesebarnfind